The heavy current draw causes the tiny contacts to erode faster than larger contacts would. On shut down, those contacts arc as they disconnect. This constriction leads to burned out capacitors from current starvation during that crucial motor startup time. Now I need to buy some power cable.The problem I see with those tiny contact starters is that the contacts become a constriction point, On startup, a motor draws three to five times the rated motor amperage. I like the idea of the magnetic starter and will keep an eye out for one in the future, but this will get me started. Then just ensure the safety ground is connected to the saw chassis and to the motor housing.Thanks ignator, found 2 new shipped for 10.99, I'll try it out. Then just ensure the safety ground is connected to the saw chassis and to the motor housing. Then connect the motor to the T1 T3 terminals (you can use any 2 of these power paths, me I would use the L1-L2 to T1-T2 for single phase). It should be simple wiring from input power to the L1 and 元 line input. The existing heaters are H1034 which is for 7 to 9 amp operation. But searching for a heater chart, shows that part numbers H1040/H1041 is used for 15.5 amp for several C-H models (use your chart to find the correct heater for this starter). See if you can find the heaters for the 15.5 amp off eBay. The chart for the heaters part number appears to be on the inside cover. You will need to locate the correct heaters for the motor nameplate current of 15.5 amps as I doubt if the 3 phase heaters are correct for this current.
The "overload relay" note on that label indicates that the L2-T2 power path has the heater (that coil looking part) being removed and shorted with a jumper for single phase operation (this will probably be a no connect, unless you have some other signal you want opened if the overload trips so ignore this power path). This is a "Manual Starter", and the start and stop buttons actuate mechanical mechanisms to close/open the motor contacts. Rob Lee, aka toothy (my cat's name and workshop buddy) this might help Rob Lee, aka toothy (my cat's name and workshop buddy) Thanks for your time and I look forward to participating. If possible I would like to use the cutler-hammer one because it's heavy duty and offers overload protection, I found out that the unisaw motors are costly and I don't want to fry this one or get hurt.
#DELTA UNISAW SWITCH REPLACEMENT MANUAL#
I wrote an ebay vendor selling a magnetic starter assembly and he called be back and was generous with his time, this was before I found the manual starter switch, and he said many people in residential applications just use a normal switch and use a low amp circuit breaker at the main panel, in this case maybe a 12.5 amp one. I will most likely not be doing anything heavy with the saw, probably some cabinetry, and some boat related starboard poly board fishing storage. I have a cutler-hammer manual nema size 0 motor 3ph starter that I assume came with the saw, photos of starter and motor attached.Ĭan I use this starter, or do I need something else. I'm a civil engineer and former 6th period union apprentice carpenter, good with tools, auto engine building, 12v boat wiring & electronics, but my electrical knowledge of electric service wiring is very limited. I have gathered all the parts I could find, and it appears that I have everything together except for the controls and wiring. It came with a 3ph baldor bullet motor, and my father bought a used but in great shape rockwell 1ph 230V 3hp motor for his house wiring. Except for the lathe, all other tools are in various stages of project completion status.
4 horizontal mill, rockwell bandsaw, rockwell delta unisaw, and few other pieces.
#DELTA UNISAW SWITCH REPLACEMENT FULL#
I inherited my father's workshop full of tools, emco lathe, burke no.